Hillsides of jungle and bright tropical flora drape around the shoulders of Mysuru. This is the fertile valley that gave birth to the Kingdom of Mysore. The energy here is decidedly feminine and many locals attribute this to the Indian Goddess Parvati. Here, we’ll share that story and a guide to Mysuru including attractions and local experiences.
About Parvati
According to Hindu mythology, this is where the Goddess Parvati slew the demon King Mahishasura, a buffalo-headed monster. As the legend goes, countless gods and goddesses prayed for Parvati’s help. The demon King Mahishasura tormented their lives. So, Parvati assumed the fierce form of Chamundeshwari. In this form she became the powerful mother, protector, and slayer of demons—and defeated the monster atop Chamundi Hill. A temple and impressive gopura (gate) located at the summit are dedicated to her.
Indeed, after the hustle of Bengaluru, Mysuru’s calm felt like being soothed in a protective mother’s arms. Mysuru has a little over a million inhabitants. It is second to Bengaluru as the largest city in the South India state of Karnataka. Shortly after arriving, we met up with our Hi Tours guide, Ramkrishna. Together, we toured both the Chamundi Hill temple and Mysore Palace. We learned a lot about the history of the area.
A Brief History of Mysuru
Mysuru is an ancient city with roots reaching back to prehistoric times. Over centuries, it was ruled by various dynasties. In more recent history, Mysuru served as the capital of the Kingdom of Mysore from 1399 to 1947. The Wodeyar dynasty ruled from 1399 until 1761. They were overthrown by the Deccan Sultanates.
Hyder Ali and his son, Tipu Sultan, led these Sultanates, expanding the kingdom significantly. Tipu Sultan, renowned for his fierce resistance against British colonization, defended the kingdom until his defeat and death in 1799. The British East India Company then took control of Mysore. Under British rule, the Wodeyars became nominal rulers again.
Remarkably, the Wodeyars are the only Indian royal family to have ruled a kingdom for over 500 years. Their dynasty’s seat, Mysore Palace, is an essential site to visit for anyone seeking to understand the city’s rich history.
A Guide to Mysuru: Attractions and Local Experiences
Visit Mysore Palace
Mysore Palace is a vast gray granite castle. It is surrounded with expansive gardens. Inside, you will find carved mahogany ceilings, stained glass, gilded pillars, and glazed tiles. On Sundays and holidays, it is illuminated with 97,000 lights. Have you heard of Mysore Palace? It is one of India’s best kept secrets. Many are surprised to learn that it ranks second only to the Taj Mahal for most visited palaces in India.
Designed by English architect Henry Irwin, Mysore Palace showcases a blend of Hindu, Islamic, Gothic, and Rajput architectural styles. The palace faces east towards Chamundi Hill and was constructed between 1897 and 1912. Its three stories are crowned with dome-capped towers. These towers rise five stories high on each corner. There is an even taller tower at the central entrance. Among its must-see features are the Durbar Hall, with its intricately sculpted pillars, and the Kalyanamantapa (marriage pavilion). The palace grounds are also home to twelve temples, each adding to the cultural richness of the complex.
Everywhere we roamed in the palace, we heard audible “oohs” and “aahs.” Being impressed was a universal reaction here. We found the whole experience relaxing, educational, and stunningly beautiful. We visited in the second monsoon season and it never felt crowded.
Go on up to Chamundeshwari Temple on Chamundi Hill
We spent the whole morning at Mysore Palace. After a refreshing lunch at the Depth N Green Cafe, we drove our car up a winding 3,300-foot climb. The goal? The summit of Chamundi Hill and a visit to Chamundeshwari Temple.
We traveled by car. But, if you are up for it, there is also a 1,000-step staircase leading to the summit. At the 700th step, you will find a five-by-eight-meter monolithic granite sculpture of Nandi, the bull mount of Shiva. Near it, of course, is a small Shiva temple.
Chamundi Hill is also known for Sadhguru’s Spot. This location holds spiritual significance for many. Sadhguru, a living guru born and raised in Mysuru, attained enlightenment here on September 23, 1982. Coincidentally, near Sadhguru’s family home, we found a family that hosts groups to learn about cuisine and culture.
Take A Cooking and Culture Class with a Local Family
Shashikali Ashok and her family are warm and friendly. They welcome guests to their home often. We felt instantly at ease. And, during our cooking lesson we learned to make Karnataka Dosas, snacks, and Tamarind Rice. Then, we devoured a banana leaf thali lunch with the product of our efforts plus two thorans, papadums, and chutneys. While we ate, this very talented family entertained us with songs and stories. Well-fed and warm with the glow of their hospitality we felt truly relaxed. Next, we ventured forth to find another of the things that makes Mysuru famous. We were looking for silk.
Go Silk Shopping
Mysore is home to the centuries-old Devaraja Market, filled with spices, silk, and sandalwood. Our mission was clear. We bought Mysore silk and had clothes made in 24 hours during our visit. That’s one of the benefits of hiring a local guide. You can trust them to direct you to a reputable establishment. We had a great day with our guide Chandra and were sad to part ways. But, our next destination was calling us.
Gratitude
Thank you to Hi Tours for sponsoring our travel throughout this part of our South India Road Trip.
All words and photos are our own. We did not share with the sponsors before publication.