A shirtless, elderly South Indian man wearing a light coloured dhoti squats on the ground with his knees near his shoulders as he waves open-palmed to the camera. Unshelled roasted cashews and a grinding stone sit at his feet.

The Cashew Man

He is forever embedded in our minds as the Cashew Man. We learned a lot from him. The day was a body bulging with humidity. Breathlessly still, the air grew palpably heavy waiting to deliver its burden. Our pace slowed as if in sync. We were winding our way along the narrow roads of southern …

The massive white columns of Nayakar Mahal Palace tower above the central courtyard, where black folding chairs are set up for a performance.

24 hours in Madurai

If you’ve only got 24 hours in Madurai, we’ve got a lot of ideas for what to do. We’re excited for you. Madurai is a bustling beehive of a 2500-year-old city. The River Vaigai flows through the centre of the city and pulses, millet, oil seeds, cotton and sugarcane grow on the fertile plains surrounding the …

Bright orange carrot halwa in a round serving dish topped with halved cashew nuts. As prepared at The Bangala, Karaikudi.

Carrot Halwa

Carrot Halwa is a rich and gratifying dessert. People associate spicy food with India. But, all that heat is balanced with an incredible array of sweet treats. You see it everywhere you travel in the country. This Carrot Halwa is an easy to make pudding that delivers satiety. A little bit at the end of …

Karen enters the inner courtyard of a Chettiar mansion.

Karaikudi in Chettinad

Karaikudi in Chettinad, is a popular destination for food lovers, architectural buffs and antique hunters. Tucked into the southeastern corner of Tamil Nadu, this town and the 70 or so other villages in the area, make up the ancestral home of the Chettiyars. The Chettiyars are a class of wealthy merchants. They built their fortunes …